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Touring Routes
Tour
2 Mid-Roscommon Drive
(Distance: 104 Km (66 miles) approx.)
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for Map
Ballaghaderreen
We commence our mid-Roscommon Drive in Ballaghadereen
on the Mayo/Roscommon border. Ballaghaderreen (Bealach a’ Doirin:
the way of the little oak tree) is a busy town situated near the
end of the Lung River which empties into Lough Gara. Beyond rises
the chain of sandstone hills which stretches north-eastward back
to the shores of Lough Key. About 6km from the town is the delightfully
maintained 9 hole golf course with an abundance of fast maturing
trees. Dillon House in the centre of Ballaghaderreen is a large
three storey impressive building built in the last quarter of
the 18th century. It was home to the Dillon family,
who were to the forefront of Irish political life from before
the Great Famine to almost the present day. James Dillon who died
in 1986, was an important figure in modern Irish politics. He
was an outstanding Minister for Agriculture and is remembered
for land drainage and reclamation schemes. One of the finest orators
of his day he was appointed to the Council of State in 1960. Roscommon
County Council now own the recently restored Dillon House and
it houses a Branch Library and the offices of the Border, Midland
and Western Regional Assembly.
From Ballaghadereen take the N5 towards Frenchpark.
Half way there on the right is the Douglas Hyde Interpretive Centre
at Portahard.
Dr. Doughlas Hyde Interpreative Centre and Garden
 The interpretative, exhibition and information
centre is dedicated to Dr Douglas Hyde, first President of Ireland,
and is housed in the church where his father was rector. Although
born and reared in the Anglo-Irish tradition, he was a scholar
who was profoundly interested in the Irish language and traditions
and published many works under the pen name "An Craoibhin
Aoibhinn" His contribution to Ireland is traced through informative
charts, books of his poems and prose, personal items, letters,
maps and photographs. The churchyard contains the remains of the
late President and other members of his family.
The Douglas Hyde Centre is open daily
from May to September, or by appointment at other times by contacting
the curator, Mrs. Deirdre O'Gara
Tel: 094 9870016
Email: dogara@roscommoncoco.ie
Web: www.roscommoncoco.ie/douglashydecentre
Going east along the N5 we pass through Frenchpark.
A short detour can be taken here along the Boyle road to view
the ruins of Cloonshanville Abbey. It was erected in 1385 by MacDermott
Roe for the Dominicans.
Hermitage House was built by Charles O’Conor, who
wrote a history of the Clan, in order to have a quiet place in
which to write and study. His original home Bellanagare Castle,
now in ruins, lies nearer the village. Bellanagare (Baile atha
na gCartha) – mouth of the ford of the cars - was on the Bianconi
mail coach route, which was an important transport route between
Longford and Ballina in the mid 19th century.
RATHCROGHAN and CRUACHAN AI
The burial place of the kings of Connaught covers
an area of 518 hectares. There are more than 20 ring forts, burial
mounds and megalithic tombs, principally Relig na Ri (burial ground
of the kings), Rath na dTarbh (fort of the bulls) and Rathbeg.
Unfortunately because the earthworks are so spread out over a
huge area, apart from a 2m high standing stone said to mark the
grave of King Dathi, last pagan King of Ireland, even a trained
eye finds it difficult to make sense of the site. This area is
the setting for the opening and the bloody conclusion of the epic
Tain Bo Cuailgne. Its origins and meaning are lost in time and
survive mainly in the folk memory of the people of Tulsk and Rathcroghan,
proud custodians of this unique ritual landscape for many centuries.
Modern science is shedding new light on the significance of this
ancient landscape and the meaning of the 60 National Monuments
to be found here, which have long been of interest to antiquarians,
archaeologists and mythologists. Now the award-winning Cruachan
Ai (Plain of the Mounds) Visitor Centre combines all of these
various strands together in an imaginative and accessible way
for everybody. Visit the Centre just at the entrance to Tulsk
village on the banks of the Ogulla River and learn about the archaeology,
history and mythology of one of the most important Celtic Royal
sites in Europe. Explore the mysteries of Oweynagat Cave - entrance
to the otherworld. Experience some of the sites for yourself through
a guided tour, or enjoy a cappuccino and cake in the friendly
café. A craft and gift shop is also on site.
Tel:: 071 9639268
Fax: 071 9639060
Email: cruachanai@esatclear.ie
Web: www.cruachanai.com
Tulsk
South of Rathcroghan is the village of Tulsk, the
"hillock of the thorn tree", once a place of importance
and a borough that sent a member to parliament. In 1406 O’Conor
Roe built a castle here, one of the strongest in the province,
and the area figured prominently in the battles waged in the area.
In the cemetery are the ruins of the Dominican priory founded
in 1443 by Felim O’Conor. It was at Ogulla Well near the village
that St. Patrick is believed to have baptised the daughter of
a king of Ireland and it is visited on St. Patrick’s Day each
year. In recent years the annual pilgrimage has been revived.
Mass is now said on the last Sunday in June close by the well.
From Tulsk we head north for Elphin along the N61.
About 3km along this road on the left look for signs for the birthplace
of Percy French at Clooneyquin. Willam Percy French, songwriter,
poet, entertainer and painter was born on the 1st May 1854 at
his family ancestral home at Cloonyquin. He loved his childhood
days and often spoke with great affection about his days in Cloonyquin.
Although the ancestral home is now in ruins, a Commemorative Plaque
now stands on the site of the original doorway and is a fitting
tribute to one of Roscommon’s most famous sons.
Elphin
Elphin takes its name from "Ailfinn" meaning
the stone of white water. This refers to a large obelisk which
stood by a well here and is recorded as having fallen down in
1675AD. The town owes its origins to the pre-Christian druidic
house known as "Imleach-Ono". It was the custom of Christians
to establish themselves at centres of old religion and thus "Ailfinn",
being a very important site, St. Patrick established a Bishopric
here.
The Elphin Diocesan School was chosen for the education
of the sons of Protestant gentry. Both Oliver Goldsmith (well-known
author and writer of the comedy "She Stoops to Conquer")
and William Wilde were educated at the school. Wilde was a distinguished
antiquarian and surgeon and father of the perhaps more famous
playwright Oscar Wilde.
A 12th century cathedral in the town was
demolished in 1964 following damage in a storm. However, the Elphin
Heritage Society have ambitious plans to restore the building
completely for use as a museum/theatre/arts centre. Something
to watch out for in the future.
Elphin Windmill
 1km north west of the town and well worth
a visit is the recently restored 18th Century Windmill - perfectly
located to harness the winds sweeping over the plains of Boyle.
Unusual features are a thatched revolving roof and sails that
are turned into the wind using cartwheels on a circular track.
Originally used for grinding corn by the local landlord and now
back in full working order, this is the only working windmill
in the West of Ireland.
Restoration work started in November 1992 and was
carried out by trainees under a FAS Community Youth Training Scheme.
The mill was officially opened by Hollywood film star Gabriel
Byrne (whose mother hails from the parish of Elphin) in June 1996.
- Opening Hours:
All year round: Daily: 10am - 6pm
Guided tours given. School tours and groups should book in advance.
Tel. 071
96 35181/35270
From Elphin follow the signs to Strokestown.
Strokestown Park House, Gardens and Famine Museum
The town of Strokestown consists mainly of
one very broad avenue which leads directly, as in a triumphal
march, to the gates of Strokestown Park House. The town was laid
out and the house designed for the Mahon family by Richard Castle
(or Cassells), one of the best neo-Palladian architects of the 18th century
in Ireland. When the house was bought in 1979 by its present owners,
they retained all the furnishings and family possessions. Few
Irish houses open to the public are so authentic in their presentation
of a period life-style. The books, the linen, the family photos,
the children’s toys are all there to be seen.
The gardens at Strokestown Park consist of two walled
enclosures, a 1.5 ha (4 acres) pleasure garden and a 0.5 ha (1.3
acres) kitchen garden. The restoration of the pleasure garden
is now complete and is open to the public. Features of note include
the longest herbaceous border in Ireland, an ornamental pond,
a pergola, a rose garden and a winter border. The kitchen garden
was also restored and is now open to the public since June 2000.
Located in the stable yards, the Famine Museum provides
a sharp contrast to the house and pleasure garden through its
exploration of the Great Irish Famine of the 1840s which is regarded
as the single greatest catastrophe of 19th century
Europe. The blight devastated the potato crop between the years
of 1845-1850 and in excess of 2 million people either died or
emigrated. During the Famine the Strokestown estate attracted
international attention when the landlord, Major Denis Mahon,
was assassinated having attempted to clear two thirds of the estate’s
tenantry through eviction and emigration. The museum uses the
extensive collection of estate papers to explain the significance
of the Famine nationally, and locally, and to incorporate parallels
between contemporary world hunger and Ireland’s past experiences.
- Opening Hours
Easter - end October: Daily 9.30am - 5.30pm
Guided tours of House.
Groups can pre-book guided tours of Garden and Famine Museum.
Carvery restaurant open 7 days.
Tel: 071 96 33013; Fax: 071 96
33712;
e-mail: info@strokestownpark.ie;
website:www.strokestownpark.ie
County Genealogy Centre
 The
County Roscommon Heritage and Genealogy Centre is located in St.
John’s Church, Strokestown. This former Church of Ireland built
in 1819, is on the site of an earlier church dating back to 1754.
The Centre offers a family research service to people with Co.
Roscommon roots who are anxious to trace their ancestry. It has
built up a comprehensive database relating to the area including
church and civil records, census records and land records. The
cost of this service varies and is dependent on the dates that
records begin in each parish, the size of the family and the quality
of information provided by the client. Each enquiry is commenced
with an initial assessment which will establish the overall cost
of the research.
St Johns Church
Strokestown
Tel:: 071
9633380
Email: info@roscommonroots.com
Web: www.roscommonroots.com
Roscommon Town
 Continuing
south via Fourmilehouse through excellent arable land famed for
the quality of its cattle and sheep, you will arrive at Roscommon,
the Country Town and administrative centre which is located about
four miles from the River Suck and offers the visitor a wide range
of accommodation, shopping, historic sites and amenity facilities,
including golf and horse racing.
There is an excellent 18-hole Golf Course adjacent
to Roscommon town with a fine new club house, where visitors are
welcome. Roscommon Race Course hosts many important meetings during
Summer and Autumn.
The town is the capital of the county to which it
gives its name. Ros means a wooded or pleasant gentle height and
Coman the name of its famous Irish saint and the first bishop
of the See.
It is a town rich in historical associations and
contains many impressive buildings and a pleasant day could easily
be spent just looking around the town. In the spacious main street
is the beautiful renovated Bank of Ireland which was once the
courthouse and afterwards served as the Catholic church until
1903. Places to visit in the town include:
County Museum and Tourist Office;
Roscommon Jail;
Roscommon Castle;
Sacred Heart Church;
Roscommon Abbey;
Library - Old Infirmary Building.
County Museum and Tourist Office
 One cannot
walk around The Square in Roscommon without noticing the attractive
former Presbyterian Church and its Manse. It is offset by its
lawn and unique "Star of David" window. The church,
which was built in the 1863, was renovated in 1991 and now displays
items such as a ninth century inscribed slab from St. Coman’s
foundation, Church St.; a replica of the Cross of Cong which the
inscription states was ‘made at Roscommon’;a superb example of
a ‘sheela-na-Gig figure. Here also in the County Museum you will
find the friendly staff of the Roscommon Tourist Information Office,
a service provided by Ireland West Tourism. They will be happy
to give you details of what’s to see and do and book accommodation
for you as you travel this magical county.
Tel: 090 6625613
Roscommon Jail
Adjacent is the massive building of solid stone,
once the county jail. It had the distinction of having a hangwoman
in the person of "Lady Betty", a criminal who had her
sentence for murder withdrawn on condition that she carried out
the hangman’s task, without fee or reward. According to local
records, the jail was built in the early 1740s and was owned by
the Roscommon landlord, the Earl of Essex. The building served
as a jail for less than a century. It subsequently became a lunatic
asylum, then a refuge for smallpox sufferers and later a private
house. The Jail has been totally rebuilt, although the front facade
has been retained, and now houses an arcade of shops and restaurant
on the ground floor with living apartments on the upper floors.
Roscommon Castle
Located on a hillside just outside the town,
Roscommon castle is quadrangular in shape, it had four corner
D-shaped towers, three storeys high, and twin towers at its entrance
gateway, one of which still retains its immensely sturdy vaulted
roof. The entire castle was enclosed by a lofty curtain wall. It was built
in 1269 by Robert de Ufford, Justiciar of Ireland, on lands he
had seized from the Augustinian Priory. The castle had a most
chequered history. It was besieged by Connacht King Aodh O’Connor
in 1272. Eight years later it was again in the hands of an English
garrison, and fully repaired. By 1340 the O’Connor’s regained
possession of it, and, except for a few brief intermissions, they
held it for two centuries until 1569, when Sir Henry Sidney, Lord
Deputy seized it. It was granted to Sir Nicholas Malbie, Elizabethan
Governor of Connaught, in 1578. Two years later the interior was
remodelled and large mullioned windows were inserted in the towers
and curtain walls. Again, in 1641 the Parliamentarian faction
gained it until Confederate Catholics under Preston captured it
in 1645. It remained in Irish hands until 1652 when it was partially
blown up by Cromwellian "Ironsides" under Commissary
Reynolds, who had all the fortifications dismantled. It was finally
burned down in 1690, and, from the closing years of the 17th
century, it gradually fell into decay. It is still quite an impressive
sight, nevertheless. A symmetrical moat some distance from the
curtain walls surrounded the entire castle and safeguarded it.
It s now a national monument.
Roscommon Town Park
 Loughnaneane Park is a
14 acre recreational area situated in the north western area of
Roscommon town bordered by the ruins of Roscommon Castle which
is a dramatic and imposing 13th Century Norman Castle. The Park
includes a crannog known locally as the Hill o' Bones, a wildflower
meadow, bird walk, lake feature, mounds, children's playground
and car park. The playground is a special facility within the
Park. It has been designed to cater for children up to twelve
years
Sacred Heart Church
The Sacred Heart Church dominates the town. The church
spire is 52 m high. Built of local cut stone and opened in 1903,
it was completed in 1925. The church is built on rising ground
and fronted by a sunken grotto. Over the main door is a fine example
of mosaic, carried out by the Italian firm of Salviate, depicting
two bishops of Elphin connected with the building of the church.
The interior is equally impressive and contains a replica of the
Cross of Cong. This wonderful example of Irish Craftsmanship was
made in Fuerty between 1120 - 1123.
Roscommon Abbey
 In
this Dominican Priory, founded in 1253, a late 13th
century effigy of its founder Felim O’Conor is placed upon a later
15th century tomb with eight mail-clad warriors representing
gallowglasses, medieval Irish professional soldiers. Famous in
early Christian days as a seat of learning under Abbot Coman,
it has close ties with St. Ciaran and Clonmacnois. The Dominican
priory, the ruins of which still stand, was founded in 1253 by
Felim O’Conor, King of Connaught and consists of a church 42m
long and 10m wide. Notwithstanding the suppressions of the 16th
and 17th centuries, the Dominicans held their community
together and its two last survivors died as parish priests of
Fuerty and of Athleague in 1830 and 1872 respectively.
Roscommon Library
One of the most modern Library Headquarters
and Branch Libraries in the country, Roscommon Co. Library is
housed in the building known as the Old Infirmary. This impressive
building was built in 1783 fr om an endowment from Mrs.
Laetitia Walcott, a woman of considerable substance. The original
building was of limestone, three storied over a basement, with
slated roof and plain limestone dressings around the windows.
The two symmetrical pavilions on the North and South ends of the
central portion were constructed after 1832. The South Pavilion
incorporated the physician’s residence with an entrance to the
front of the building, with carved door case and steps. Other
renovations were carried out to the building in 1902 and 1929.
It continued to be used as a hospital until 1941, when the new
county hospital was built. Major reconstruction work began in
1989 and was completed at a cost of £1,200,000. The result is
a beautiful building, well worth a visit particularly if you are
interested in researching your Roscommon roots. The Library houses
a wealth of archival material.
Tel. 090 66 37273/37275;
e-mail: roslib@roscommon.ie;
web:www.roscommoncoco.ie/services/library.html
After touring the many historical sites in Roscommon,
time for a break for refreshments. Roscommon town is very well
served with restaurants, coffee-shops and pubs.
The return journey to Ballaghaderreen takes you out
the Castlerea road (N60), past Roscommon Race Course. About 8
kms from the town take a detour to the left to visit Donamon Castle.
Donamon Castle
Donamon Castle is one of the oldest inhabited buildings
in Ireland. There was a fortress here from earliest times, but
the earliest recorded reference is in the Annals of the Four Masters
for the year 1154. The castle was the seat of the O’Finaghty’s,
the Chiefs of clan Conway, which clan held the land for miles
round about. The Castle was attacked, destroyed, occupied and
repossessed many times in the course of the next 500 years. In
1668, Thomas Caulfield, brother of Lord Charlemont, got the lease
of the lands for 500 years. Subsequent Caulfields were prominent
in local politics and many of them rose to the highest position
in the Irish Bar. Perhaps the most colourful of the Caulfields
of Donamon was St. George (1697-1778), M.P., judge, miser, cattle-fancier,
alcohol-hater, philanderer and pitch-and-toss expert! The last
Caulfield left Donamon in 1920 and died in reduced circumstances
in London in 1933. Apart from its occupation by the Republican
forces in 1921 it remained vacant for the next 19 years, shunned
by the local people who believed it haunted by the ghost of a
former bailiff.
In 1939 the Divine Word Missionaries bought the property.
The grounds were a wilderness and the Castle was in a ruinous
condition. Great hardship was suffered by the first community
and matters were made worse by the fact that it was cut off by
the war from its sister-houses on the Continent. The Castle is
now home to a small number of Divine Word Missionary priests who
produce high quality greeting cards and the widely-read quality
publication "The Word". The interior of the castle is
being refurbished at present and fundraising events take place
in the Castle on an ongoing basis. The former seminary now houses
‘Cuisle’ - a respite centre and holiday home for disabled people.
Ballintubber
Returning to the N60 watch for signs for Ballintubber
to the right to take an alternative route to Castlerea.
Ballintubber is a neat attractive village. The striking
feature, and well worth a visit, is Ballintubber Castle, one of
Ireland’s greats, which overlooks the town. It was built by the
O’Connors of Connaught in 1300 and was their chief seat after
the Anglo-Norman invasion until the beginning of the 18th century.
The interior is about 3,000 sq. m in extent and forms a quadrangle
enclosure with towers on the four corners. From 1385 - when it
became the property of the O’Conor Don - to roughly 1500, it figured
prominently in local wars, suffering destruction, occasional burnings,
and always, restoration. In the Cromwellian Plantation, the castle
was assigned to Lord Kilmallock, but was restored to the O’Conor
Don in 1677. Subsequently, the castle and lands were mortgaged
and passed from the O’Conor Don. In 1790 the castle and estate
was sold to Maurice Mahon of Strokestown House, but the castle
and part of the divided lands have now reverted to the O’Conor
Don family of Clonalis House, Castlerea. St. Brigid’s Well from
which Ballintubber (the town of the well) gets its name can be
seen in the centre of the village.
From here take directions to Castlerea.
Castlerea
A thriving market town, Castlerea is the third most
important town in the county, and is beautifully situated in wooded
country on the banks of the Suck. It was the birthplace in 1815
of Sir William Wilde, educated in the diocesan school in Elphin
and father of the celebrated dramatist and wit, Oscar Wilde.
Located adjacent to the town is a 9-hole golf course
where the River Suck, the natural parkland and mature trees form
an integral part of this lovely course. The ancestral home of
the O’Conor clan can be viewed from the 9th tee.
Places to visit in Castlerea include:
Castlerea Demesne;
Railway Museum;
Clonalis House;
Emlagh Cross.
Castlerea Demesne
Castlerea Demesne is a marvellous facility in the
centre of the town. Here in a sylvan setting people can enjoy
an afternoon stroll, playground for children and the River Francis,
which flows into the River Suck. On the banks of the river, only
a few minutes walk from the centre of the town, is a modern swimming
pool. There the children spend their sumer evenings, diving and
swimming and even the very young can enjoy their splash in the
children’s pool.
Railway Museum
Probably the most unusual museum building in Ireland
and not to be missed. Sean Browne’s railway museum is housed in
a 1955 A55 diesel locomotive. It is open 7 days a week and is
a treasure trove for railway enthusiasts. On display are bells,
lamps, shunting poles, signal equipment etc. Adjacent to the museum
you can have a drink at Hell’s Kitchen and chat to Sean Browne
about steam engines, railway lore, or indeed any subject under
the sun!
Clonalis House
 Clonalis
House, just west of the town on the N60 to Castlebar, is the ancestral
home of the clan O’Conor, who gave eleven high kings to Ireland
and twenty four kings to Connaught. The family traces back to
Feredach the Just in 75 A.D. and is Europe’s oldest family. The
45 room mansion was built in 1878 and contains a priceless collection
of over 10,000 archival documents, illustrating a tradition going
back 60 generations. Preserved in Clonalis is O’Carolan’s harp
with which he entertained Charles O’Conor and his family at Mount
Druid, Bellanagare. Other exhibits include costumes, uniforms
and laces belonging to the family. The house is well furnished
with Sheraton and Louis Quinze style furniture and family portraits
spanning many centuries decorate the walls. Clonalis House also
has 4 ensuite guest bedrooms and is part of the Hidden Ireland
Group.
Web: www.clonalis.com
mail: clonalis@iol.ie
Emlagh Cross
Located in a field 2 miles south-east of Castlerea,
and near the railway line, remains of an early Irish cross. It
is described in A Descriptive list of the Early Irish Crosses
by Henry S. Crawford as follows: "Base and part of a shaft,
5 feet high, with interlaced and other patterns. There are also
the fragments of a plain shaft, and a broken head without a ring,
but having the arms wider at the ends than at the centre, and
ornamented with bosses in relief".
The return journey to Ballaghaderreen is west through
the village of Ballinlough (Baile an Locha) – town of the
lake. It is part of the ancient parish of Kiltullagh and records
show that St. Patrick visited the area and selected Kiltullagh
as a monastic foundation about 450AD. The Parish of Kiltullagh
is of great interest to archaeologists and remains of ancient
graves, inscribed stones and evidence of two large raths and an
underground cave can be found south of the town. Around the 11th
century the O’Flynns built a castle overlooking a lake, now known
as Lake O’Flynn, just north of the town. In 1602, when O’Sullivan
Beara was on his famous march from Kinsale, he got a warm welcome
from the O’Flynns. Continue north through the village of Loughglynn.
Now a nursing home, Loughglynn House was once the seat of the
Dillon family, built circa 1750.
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